From Bookforum: Appreciations of ice cream and cake celebrate the deliciously fattening over the guiltily consumed fake.

We also, of course, eat an incredible amount of fake ice cream. Neither author offers a figure, but in a world where 1921’s hit ice-cream novelty, the Eskimo Pie, has been replaced by the Slender Pie (artificially sweetened, 98 percent fat free, and yet still 100 percent larger than its predecessor, thanks to the injection of air), it’s a safe bet the number is huge. As the people who market ice cream know better than anyone, eating in America has been tempered by guilt about taking pleasure in doing so practically since the Puritans got their shock.